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🏰  A guide for first-time visitors to Sumy: where to walk, eat, and relax

photo 2024 08 26 14 38 46

photo 2024 08 26 14 38 46

Where to go for a walk? What to see? Where to eat? These questions are essential for anyone arriving in an unfamiliar city. It's convenient when all answers can be found in one text. Therefore, for guests who have recently arrived in Sumy, we have created a guide that will help you experience the city's atmosphere. In this compilation, you can find information about architectural monuments, cultural spaces, and places to relax both in nature and in the city. At the end of the text, we suggest where to buy Sumy souvenirs and what to read about the city on the banks of the Psel River.

Our city is Cossack

According to legend, Cossacks once found three hunting bags filled with gold on the banks of the Psel River. They showed their find to their Cossack chieftain, who decided to use this money to found a city and called it Sumy. This legend became so popular that the bags were depicted on our city's coat of arms. In reality, however, the story was a little more complicated.

In fact, Sumy was founded in 1655 by Cossack settlers led by ataman Herasym Kondratiev. They came to these lands from the village of Stavyshche, located in the Kyiv region. Interestingly, they left their homes out of necessity.

Reconstruction of the fortress. Author: Ihor Tytarenko

On June 26, 1655, the Cossacks received permission from the muscovite tsar to settle in the territories of modern Sumy. You may be surprised by the phrase «Cossacks received permission from the muscovite tsar». The fact is that before the Great Northern War, that is, before 1708 and before Hetman Ivan Mazepa's decision to support the Swedish army, all Ukrainian Cossacks fought on the side of Muscovy.

But let's return to the foundation. The resettled Cossacks began to build a defensive fortress, which was intended to protect the territory of Sloboda Ukraine from Tatar raids. The bastion was built to last – the enemy besieged Sumy several times but could never enter the city. Subsequently, in the first half of the 18th century, Sumy became the capital of Sloboda Ukraine and the founder of other cities, for example, Sudzha in the Kursk region.

Sugar Age

If you ask Sumy citizens who contributed the most to Sumy's development, they would likely say, «Ivan Kharytonenko». He was a philanthropist and sugar magnate. In the mid-19th century, Kharytonenko built a sugar refinery in Sumy, which later became one of the five largest plants in Ukraine. He subsequently formed and headed a sugar syndicate. This monopoly united more than 90% of all sugar enterprises in the Russian Empire.

The appearance of the historical part of the city is, in particular, the merit of the Kharytonenko family.
Many of the buildings funded by them are located on Troitska Street. First is the Kharytonenko estate, whose beauty, unfortunately, cannot be fully appreciated now, as this monument has been under restoration since 2003. If you walk a little further, you'll see the building of the Classical Gymnasium, which Sumy citizens sometimes call «the Hogwarts of Sumy», and you'll also admire one of the city's most famous buildings — the Trinity Cathedral.

The city of rebellion

In Soviet times, Sumy managed to preserve its Ukrainian identity. Already in the 1990s, Sumy citizens removed the Lenin monument from Pokrovska Square and replaced it with a monument to Ivan Kharytonenko.

Sumy is called the city-forerunner of the Orange Revolution because in 2004, student protests took place here. The youth fought against the merger of the city's three universities into one — Sumy National University. Despite the fact that the students were poisoned with unknown substances and held in police departments, they managed to prevent the unification. Those events went down in history under the name «Revolution on the Grass».

Students Tent City, Summer, 2004. Archive photo

The Great War in Sumy

Sumy ability to withstand enemies was also demonstrated during the full-scale war. Our city was defended by territorial defense. The defenders stopped tanks and artillery pieces, destroyed fuel tankers, and captured Russian soldiers. Territorial defenders even began to be jokingly called «local NATO». By their actions, Sumy defenders managed to halt the enemy's advance towards Kyiv. At that time, other residents actively volunteered: they helped equip checkpoints, fed defenders, made Molotov cocktails, raised money for vehicles and military equipment, and collected first-aid kits.

Now our city is again under attack from the Russians. It is targeted by missiles, guided bombs, and drones. However, Sumy remains brave and steadfast, like an indestructible fortress called upon to stop enemies. That is why new food establishments are opening in the city, private museums and galleries are operating, and cultural events are taking place. Next, we will tell you about all this in more detail. Let's start with Sumy's architecture.

Holy Resurrection Cathedral

This is the only 17th-century building that remains intact in Sumy. The cathedral was built at the expense of the first Sumy colonel, Herasym Kondratiev. He is the same one who founded Sumy with his sworn brothers as resettlers. The cathedral was built according to Ukrainian traditions — it is three-chambered and three-bayed. Pay attention to the walls of the building — they are massive, obviously designed to withstand enemy attacks.

Near the Holy Resurrection Cathedral is a tenement house built at the beginning of the 18th century. However, according to the city council website, it has been rebuilt several times, so only some architectural details in the basement and attic remind us of its age.

Address: 19, Nezalezhnosti Square

Regional Universal Scientific Library

The project of the four-story building made of glass and concrete was developed by Sumy architect Yurii Kobyliakov. The new library was opened on April 20, 1986. Inside, the building is decorated with a woolen tapestry called «The Tree of Knowledge», measuring six by eleven meters. It was specially made for the library by the artisans of the Reshetyliv factory of artistic products in the Poltava region. The carpet maker and artist Leonid Tovstuha led the process.

Address: 10, Heroiv Sumshchyny Street

Sukhanov-Sumovsky estate

This mini-palace is the former estate of Sumy businessman and philanthropist Mykola Sukhanov.
It is built in the neoclassical style with baroque elements. The architectural ensemble of three buildings was built in 1895. Masters decorated the manor with semi-columns, pilasters, garlands and vignettes.
Later, the estate was owned by the Sumovsky family. The head of the family, Joakim Adolfovych, was a co-founder of JSC for the construction of the private Belgorod-Sumy railway and one of the three directors of the board.

Now the building houses the Institute of Applied Physics of the National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine. Most likely, you will not be allowed to go inside, but it is quite possible to see the beauty of the mini-palace from the outside.

Address: 58, Petropavlivska Street

Petropavlivske Central Cemetery

This place is called an open-air museum for good reason. There is an eight-meter-high pyramid in the cemetery. No one knows exactly who built it or when. Some researchers suggest that it was a tomb for two persons from a wealthy family who had connections to Egypt.

In the center of the cemetery is the Peter and Paul Church, built in 1851 in the classical style. Members of the Kharytonenko family are buried next to it. Their graves are decorated with white marble sculptures created by French sculptor Aristide Croisy. The works of this artist are housed in the Louvre. The grave of Sumy philanthropist, industrialist, and merchant Dmytro Sukhanov is also located nearby. Researchers believe that the author of the monument is the outstanding sculptor Mark Antokolskyi.

In 2014, near the central entrance to the cemetery, soldiers who died in the ATO/OOS zones began to be buried. Later, the place turned into the Alley of Glory.

Address: Sumy Artbrigade Street

Trinity Cathedral

This is one of the most famous buildings in Sumy. At the beginning of the 20th century, Pavlo, the son of sugar factory owner Ivan Kharytonenko, decided to expand the premises of the old church, which could no longer accommodate all the parishioners. Soon after, he laid the foundation of the Trinity Cathedral based on the project of Sumy architect Karl Scholz. The building was intended to resemble St. Isaac's Cathedral in St. Petersburg.

Construction lasted from 1901 to 1914. Pavlo Kharytonenko, patron of the cathedral, never saw its consecration. He passed away before this event. The architecture of the building combines elements of different styles. Along the perimeter of the cathedral, there is a cornice in the classical style, while the chapels are built in the baroque style. There is decoration in the form of floral ornaments.

Address: 24a, Troitska Street

Where to go for a walk

There are many cozy places in Sumy: numerous water bodies, parks, and forests. Locations for recreation can be found both in the city center and on the outskirts. For example, you can spend your lunch break walking along Theater Square or the Psel embankment in the municipal park. We suggest spending the evening on the shore of Lake Chekha or on the campus of Sumy National Agrarian University.

Square of the Business Institute of Sumy State University

This location is small but well-maintained. Newlyweds often visit here to take beautiful photos. You will be able to relax among green lawns and various types of plants. The square is equipped with comfortable benches and alcoves, and you can also find a fountain there. A guard maintains order.

Address: 18, Herasym Kondratiev Street
Working hours: from 9:00 to 17:00, except for Saturdays and Sundays

Photo: «Visit Sumy»

Recreational park named after Kozhedub

The location is situated in the heart of Sumy. It is bordered by the Psel River on the east and south, which is why Sumy residents love this place so much during the summer heat. Here you can take a walk along the embankment or swim in the river. The park has children's and sports playgrounds, attractions including a Ferris wheel, and wooden sculptures have been installed. Pleasant shade is provided by trees and bushes, of which there are more than 30 species.

👣 You can find this park on the map

Photo: »Visit Sumy»

Campus of the Agrarian University

The campus is located on the grounds of Sumy National Agrarian University. Many decorative and fruit trees, bushes, and flowers grow here. It is pleasant to walk around the campus because the paths are laid out in the form of green labyrinths. At the entrance to the educational institution, there is a stand with a map of the university grounds.

Another information board will help you find out which plants grow on campus and where they are located. The total area of the campus is 36.5 hectares. In addition to educational buildings and laboratories, there are two sports playgrounds and training grounds for crop cultivation.

Address: 160, Herasym Kondratiev Street

Photo: Myk Sadovyi

Chekh Lake

This is the favorite lake of Sumy residents. People call it «Cheshka». It lies in the Zarichny district of Sumy and has an area of 32 hectares. Around the lake, there are pedestrian and bicycle paths, sports grounds, tennis courts, as well as alcoves where you can cook meals over a fire. There are many birds at Lake Chekha. By the way, this is one of the few water bodies in Sumy where birds nest and breed.
We recommend visiting it during sunset.

👣 You can find this lake on the map

Photo: «Visit Sumy»

Basivskyi park

If you want to walk along forest paths, go to Basivskyi Park. This quiet place will make you fall in love at first sight, also because the Psel River flows nearby. In the 19th century, this park was part of Countess Paraskeva Shtyrycheva's country estate. Her palace has been preserved here, and you can see the remains of a fountain and paths that were once paved with bricks. Now the manor complex belongs to the Medical Institute of Sumy State University. In September 2013, a sanatorium and preventive care facility of the university was opened here.

👣 You can find this park on the map

Photo: Andrii Mozgovyi

Sunset Beach at Blue Lakes

The Blue Lakes are an artificial water body. They were created in the 1960s on the right bank of the Psel River. In 2023, a comfortable recreational area was developed here. Sand was brought in, the coastline was cleaned, trees were planted, changing rooms were installed, and a playground and a volleyball court were set up. Near the shore, there are several barbecue pits that can be used freely, and a parking lot for vehicles.

👣 You can find the location on the map under the name «Sandy beach on the Blue Lakes».

Art Quarter

You will not find this name in tourist guides because it is unofficial. Moreover, it appeared recently, in April of this year. The quarter was formed when the Sumy City Council renamed Plazhnyi Lane to Davyd Burliuk Lane, after the famous artist and founder of Futurism.

This is how a territory emerged where streets named after artists connected: Mykola Murashko, Hnat Khotkevych, Nikanor Onatskyi, Oskar Hansen, and the aforementioned Davyd Burliuk. Near the quarter, there are regional museums - art and local history - as well as the Sumy National Academic Theater named after Shchepkin.

👣 You can find the Artistic Quarter near the Universal Scientific Library, between the Regional Local History Museum, located at 2, Herasym Kondratiev Street, and the «Romantika» Youth Center, located at 3, Heroiv Sumshchyny Street.

Cultural platforms in Sumy

The Great War awakened not only the warrior gene in Sumy residents. As soon as the Russians were driven out of the region, active citizens began to develop local culture. During the full-scale invasion, they opened private museums and galleries, created creative spaces, invited stand-up artists, musicians, lecturers, and architects to Sumy, and organized festivals. Sumy people did and are doing all this so that everyone has the strength to live and fight on.

Dvoryk on Kuznechna

At the end of February 2022, when Sumy was surrounded by Russian troops, Dvoryk on Kuznechna was a volunteer camp. Boxes with bottles and rags were everywhere. Molotov cocktails were mixed here. When the Russians retreated, Dvoryk on Kuznechna co-founder Dmytro Tishchenko, together with the team, decided that this place should fill Sumy citizens with faith that everything will be okay.

First, a general cleaning was carried out in the yard, and then the territory was paved and a stage was set up. In 2022, several concerts, a discussion, and a meeting of changemakers were organized here. There were also theatrical performances. Visitors to the events said that the activities at Dvoryk on Kuznechna «motivate them to get out of their bubble».

Currently, the «Embracing Season» is in progress here. Cathedral evenings are held every Thursday, and breakfasts are prepared for guests every Saturday. To stay up to date with all Dvoryk on Kuznechna events, subscribe to their Instagram page.

Address: 2, Kuznechna Street

Artistic Yard (Artdvir) on Voskresenskа

Artdvir on Voskresenska Street is a place of pure artistic improvisation. There is a chair mounted on the wall, colorful birdhouses, and a pyramid with ribbons of wishes. In Artdvir on Voskresenska, you will see how murals and various art objects coexist with air conditioners, wires, and heating pipes.

There is a museum where you can touch the exhibits (we will talk about it below), as well as the BureauArt gallery. It is located in the far corner of Artdvir. The exhibition space itself is small, only 25 square meters, but this does not prevent the gallerists from attracting famous artists. New exhibitions in the gallery appear every four weeks. BureauArt also has a coffee shop serving tea, coffee, lemonade, and wine.

Address: 6a,Voskresenska Street

This location opened in Sumy in May 2022, right after the city was released from the blockade. The museum is located in a historical building from the late 19th century, in Artdvir. The main feature of this place is that Serhii Hutsan, the founder of «Odyssey Pier», allows visitors to touch the exhibits. The museum has five rooms: «Chaos», «System», «Courage», «Evolution», and «Lighthouse». They house exhibits from the time of Troy to the present day.

Next to the museum, there is also the Kos Tur gallery. It was opened by Serhii Hutsan and Roman Holub in the summer of 2022. This private, non-commercial initiative was dedicated to the 75th anniversary of Sumy artist and ceramic sculptor Leontii Kostur. The artist is known for founding the artistic direction called «costurism».

Art space «Pohrib»

This location is located underground, on the site of a vegetable warehouse. The general appearance of the room is surprising in its combinations: tall arches made of old bricks exist alongside modern technology and lighting. The space was created by Sumy activists Oleksandr Babych and Ihor Tytarenko. They wanted to make a place to unite communities in Sumy. So now artists, poets, stand-up artists, photographers and architects gather here. Exhibitions and concerts are also held in «Pohrib».
Events are usually announced on the «Sumy of the Future» community page on Instagram.

Address: 4, Voskresenska street

Photo: «Sumy of the Future» community

Where to eat and drink coffee?

Despite the fact that Sumy is located 30 kilometers from the border with the aggressor country, new restaurants and cafes are opening in the city. In these establishments, you can taste dishes from various world cuisines, try craft beer, and enjoy delicious desserts. We are sharing the addresses and opening hours of new restaurants and cafes. At the end of this section, you will find a link to a guide to Sumy's eateries. In it, we have compiled a list of places that serve breakfast, prepare lunch, promote coffee culture, and offer desserts.

Cafe Mereli

This establishment offers desserts from the «Sakhar» confectionery. At Mereli, you can enjoy coffee or tea on the premises, or take drinks to go. The cafe recommends trying their eclairs, mochi, and tarts. The establishment also prepares sweet gift boxes and cakes to order.

Address: 1,Kozatskyi Val Street.
Working hours: daily from 9:00 to 20:00

Restaurant «Shnobel»

The establishment was opened in February 2024. At «Shnobel» you can taste salad with salmon and avocado, Ukrainian coal-grilled steak, chocolate fondant or cheburek. Also, «Schnobel» bakes its own bread, and the bartenders make cocktails «that won't give you a headache».
Every day from 9:00 to 12:00 you can order breakfast in the restaurant.

Address: 5, Kharkivska Street.
Working hours: daily from 9:00 to 22:00

Noodle parlor «Namynai»

The facility opened in April 2024. Pan-Asian cuisine is served here, which usually combines several tastes: sweet and salty, sour and bitter. Namynai has different types of noodles and rice, as well as ramen and kimchi.

Address: 13/1 Nyzhnioholodnohirska street.
Opening hours: from 11:00 to 21:00 every day, except Sundays

Pub SolodKava

The facility opened in March. Craft beer is brewed here, European and pan-Asian dishes are prepared. For example, at SolodKava you can try fried eggplant and mussels, hot pans, ribs and medallions on a mushroom pillow. Also order salads, burgers or pizza. In the morning, the cooks prepare light breakfasts.

Address: 81, Peremohy avenue
Working hours: daily from 10:00 to 21:00

Bakery and confectionery «Pan Pekar»

The facility is located in the central part of the city. Pan Pekar prepares eight different types of sourdough bread. Here you can taste croissants with raspberry, chocolate, pistachio and caramel. There are also pizzas, pies, puff pastry, cakes and pastries.

Address: 13, Pokrovska square.
Working hours: from 8:00 to 20:00

Che's Cafe

This establishment opened before the Great War, but we decided to include it in this selection.
Due to Russian aggression, the cafe owners had to change its concept. For a long time in Sumy, considerable attention was paid to the figure of Anton Chekhov, a Russian writer of Ukrainian origin. His portraits could be seen in every corner of the cafe, which was then called Chekhoff's.

Today, the cafe has changed its name to Che's. The staff have removed Chekhov's images and frequently raise funds for the ZSU (Armed Forces of Ukraine). At Che's, you can taste sandwiches, baked Camembert, grilled veal, and noodles with chanterelles. Che's also prepares its own branded liqueurs, which you can take away.

Address: 2/2, Kozatsky Val street

Bottle&Cup cafe

One of our editors' favorite coffee shops. In addition to coffee, tea, lemonades, and desserts, Bottle&Cup serves okroshka with chicken or salmon, carbonara, cheesecakes, shakshuka, and many other delicious dishes.

Address: 4, Kuznechna street
Working hours: from 9:00 to 20:00, the kitchen is open until 17:00

As promised, we are adding our guide to Sumy institutions. With it, you will quickly choose a place that prepares bowls for breakfast or steak for dinner, where craft beer is brewed and classic cocktails are mixed. In this selection you will also find addresses and current prices.

Where to buy souvenirs with a Sumy vibe

There are many interesting, tasty, beautiful and useful things in the С.Kramnytsia online store. The assortment includes branded products from Tsukr, as well as products from local manufacturers. In С.Kramnytsia you can buy bright socks, a T-shirt «Sumy is my fortress»,
shopper «I carry Sumy pride», Sumy hoodie «City that empowers». We also have stained glass brooches, necklaces, charms and handkerchiefs. You can pick up your order at our store office immediately after payment.

Address: 2, Kuznechna Street, second floor.
Working hours: from Monday to Friday from 10:00 to 17:30

«Kraftnytsia» will also help you to choose something with a Sumy atmosphere. In the store you can buy products of local producers: chocolate, hemp products, ceramic dishes, lavender products, honey and other products.

Address: 15a, Pokrovska square, stop near McDonald's
Working hours: from 9:00 to 18:00

Cukr.city is the first Sumy media that is financed by the readers themselves. Thanks to this, we write texts, shoot videos, make podcasts, and organize cultural events that inspire. Today, our Tsukr Club already has 700 members. To support Tsukr once or permanently, follow the link.

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